Trade Beads
Beads have been used to adorn the human body for millenia. From the earliest pieces that were probably no more than a naturally perforated stone or shell to elaborate carvings and intricately worked designs.

In some cultures they have been credited with magical protective powers or worn to convey social status. Given their popularity it is not surprising therefore that they became a convenient medium for exchange and barter.

Materials easily obtained in one location would be more valuable far from their source. Egyptian faience and glass were traded to Northern and Western Europe as far back as the bronze Age and coral, highly prized in Tibet for centuries, was imported from Italy along the silk route.

Glass was a favorite material for bead production, relatively easy to work and cheap to produce. It was sometimes used as a simulant for much rarer gemstones, but also developed its own bead tradition.
19th Century Chevron or Rosetta bead
Modern necklace using antique trade beads 
           from the Africa trade
               and new vermeil links
Glassworking in Europe has a long history. There were various centres of production throughout the Mediterranean and Central Europe even before the rise of the Roman Empire. Early beads were undecorated, but designs gradually became more complex. Mosaic "face beads" from the Roman Period show an incredible level of detail.

One of the most important periods for European glass beadmaking began during the Renaissance. As adventurers and traders sailed for other parts of the world they carried glass beads with them to barter and offer as gifts.

As routes became better known and trade relationships more established there was increased demand for glass bead production. By the 17th century European beads were being profitably exchanged for furs and raw materials in the Americas, and gold, ivory, slaves and other exotic products from Africa.
Modern chevron bead from Murano
Top view of chevron showing characteristic
star pattern
The Europeans sought to refine their bead production to make designs that were particularly appealing to their various markets. Brightly coloured "seed" beads were prized in North America, and used to decorate clothing and other utensils. Larger glass beads were popular for the Africa trade.

Venice was the origin for much of the trade bead production. However they were unable to maintain their monopoly position, and Venetian artisans also helped develop industries in Holland, Bohemia and other centres.

A huge variety of beads were produced, and the Venetians pioneered methods of mass production for sohisticated patterns. Some particular deigns were very popular for trade.

Chevron or rosetta beads, built from layers of different colour glass, and ending in a star pattern were made in large numbers for export. The most common were made from a combination of red, white and blue, with a 12 pointed star. However other colours and star shapes are known. Some varieties are now very rare.
Strand of 19th century Venetian mosaic beads
Close up of mosaic bead, this style is also
probably used in the Africa trade, and only
known as murrine
recently gathered as a set
Millefiore ( literally 1,000 flower ) or mosaic beads were made by compounding glass canes of different colours. The end product was extremely decorative and many varieties were traded into Africa and parts of Asia.

Smaller drawn or cane beads were also made in huge numbers.

Even though these beads were mass produced, the nature of the process means that subtle variations of size and pattern occur.

The use of beads for trade declined in the early part of the 20th Century. However many of the styles are stll produced today, by the same methods.

Antique trade beads have become highly collectable, and prices have risen along with their popularity.
Close up of mosaic bead, this style is also
Close up of mosaic bead, this style is also
known as murrine
known as murrine
Drawn and compound, hot pinched glass
star beads, late 19th early 20th century
Wound glass with polychrome decoration
Close up of mosaic bead, this style is also
late 19th early 20th century
known as murrine
Small modern chevron style beads
Journal Index Page